Wednesday, January 1, 2014

Monday, November 5, 2012

Our trip has come to an end...



Friday. Saying goodbye at Valle de rodellar and driving to Fontainebleau, it’s 9 AM. We arrive around 3 AM. In Milly-la-Forêt a deer runs along our camper.
(photo left: A short lunch stop in the Spanish Pyrenees)
 






Saturday. We meet Jan Gorrebeeck and Stijn, together we climb at sector Isatis. Derzou tries the route Iceberg en aller-retour  and El Poussah. Jan send the route Iceberg en aller-retour, 7C+ and Stijn send the route Abdolobotomy, 7A.
In the evening we’ve dinner in a very nice Thai restaurant in Nemours with Jan G., Stijn, Jan de Smit, Nathalie, Benjamin and Steve.

Sunday. Climbing at sector Cuvier-est and Rempart with the whole Belgian crew. At Rempart Derzou, Benjamin and Steve tries the route Fourmis Rouges, 7C and Jan G and Jan de Smit trying the route Atrésie, 8A.

 











Monday. Easy climbing at sector Rocher Potala.

Around 3PM we drive back home, our trip has come to an end, actually our adventure will continue, the only change is that we work 4 days now and then we’ve 3 days to go climbing on the rocks.
The purpose of this climbing trip was to be a better rock climber, to be closer to the rocks, to have the feeling that you live close to the rocks.
We’ve learned new climbing styles, such as tufa’s with the use of knee pads and hollow slopers in China. 
We’ve bought a 9mm rope of 100m, especially to climb longer routes, it was a special experience to climb routes more than 30m, certainly overhanging routes.
The fun you have when you’ve plenty of time is the variation in the climbing; easy, difficult, long routes, boulders,…
My biggest obstacle in rope climbing was my mental aspect, the fear of falling in lead climbing, it hinders my performance tremendously. That’s why I want to climb as much as possible on the rocks and less in the gym, to vanquish the mental problem.
We think it’s just fantastic to explore different climbing areas in different countries and admire the overwhelming nature and meet many people from all over the world, to experience the typical lifestyle of each place, taste of the local food, to live close to nature…
The journey has been a revelation to us, it has opened the door for more adventures…

We also want to thank our sponsors for their contribution.
Thank you Katarina from HealthXL for all the delicious healthy products, it has given us the necessary boost to our body.
Thank you Jakob from Outdoordreams for the Boreal climbing shoes, the lynx are my favorite, it has it all, a good technical toe and heel, the Kintaro is ideal for pocket routes and overhang. Also thanks for the accessories, for me the backpack “Rambla 40” is very usefull and comfortable for rock climbing.

Derzou would like to thank Rob from Outware for the Scarpa climbing shoes. The Vapors (with laces) are very well build, and the rubber last long, and sticks good (the first pair have not yet been worn through). The Vapors are very good for face climbing.
Thank you Seppe, from Klimzaal Blok, for the t-shirts and sweaters.
Thank you DVV for the little financial support and to let me go to chase my dream and not to lose my job.

Thursday, October 25, 2012

Tuesday. Trying Géminis and Argo.
 
Wednesday. Rest day. Late afternoon we prospect the sector Café solo, Egocentrismo and La Palomera.

Thursday. Climbing at sector Pince sans rire. Derzou on sights the routes Quimica, 7A+, Pince sans rire, 7B+ and Afina con Cristina, 7B.

Friday. Rest day.

Saturday. Trying Géminis and Argo.

Sunday. Rest day.

Monday. Climbing at sector Traversía de los Ángeles, beautiful technical seven grade routes.


Tuesday. I can finally do the crux to the right pinch (expo move) in Argo.

Wednesday. Rest day. ‘Forty’ and his girlfriend are driving back home to Mallorca.

Thursday. Trying Géminis and Argo.

Friday, Saturday and Sunday. Rain showers, good for nature but not for us, climbers.

Monday. The most of the routes are totally wet, especially our projects. The tufa’s are soaked. The vertical routes at Nuits des Temps are dry and we climb some routes including Es de puta madre, 7A+ (very technical, delicate crux in the second part).

Tuesday. Gran Bóveda is still very wet. Climbing at Pince sans rire and Nuits des Temps. Derzou on sights the route María ponte el arnés, 7B+ and Anfiestamina, 7B+/C (see picture).
 
 











Wednesday. Still tufa’s dripping at Gran Bóveda. We try the route El Delfín, 7C+ and Made in Mascún, 7C/+ (see picture) but these routes are also wet.
Dinner at Kalandraka and farewell to Armando and the locals.
 
 





Thursday. Raining. We are planning to leave Rodellar and have a stopover in Fontainebleau on the way back. Rodellar has become one of our favorite places, not only the variety of climbs but the atmosphere in the village is different than we experienced before. It’s very relaxed, I think a kind of community feeling.

Routes we have climbed in Rodellar during our stay:



Routes tried but not completed:

Monday, October 8, 2012



Monday. I try the route Argo again, but I need to work out some dynamic crux. Derzou instead send the route in his first go.
Today Derzou tries the route Geminis, 40m, 8B+ (see picture) and L’any que ve també, 7C.
 











Tuesday. We climb a very beautiful route Quimica, 7A+, one of the longest routes in Rodellar (50m) and very expo bolted. On the way back we pick some figs, to put in our breakfast, mmm.


Wednesday. Starting the day with a big breakfast at Valle de Rodellar. We go for an evening walk in the beautiful nature around Rodellar (Camino a La Ermita de la Virgen del Castillo).
 











Thursday. I try the route L’any que ve també, 7C and Derzou climbs the route.

Friday. Rainy day, chill out in the Van.

Saturday. Rainy day again, hang out in Valle de Rodellar, internet, play chess, have dinner…

Sunday. I try the route Argo again, the movements begin to feel more comfortable. Derzou tries the route Geminis again.

Monday. Together with a group of climbers (from Israel, Portugal and Spain) we walk to the sector Piscineta.
 
 








Tuesday. I try the route Argo and Derzou, Geminis.

Wednesday. Rest day, hang out in Valle de Rodellar starting with a great breakfast.

Thursday. I try again Argo, still one hard dynamic move to a pinch that I can’t do and Derzou works out all the moves in Geminis, except the last run after the traverse is for the next time.

Friday. Rest day. Derzou is in the mood to bake a cake, mmm tastes good.
 
 









Saturday. Short visit from Guga (B), he’s on his way to Portugal to surf. I try the route Argo again and Derzou, Geminis.

Sunday. Picking rose hips and figs, to make jam. Preparing the rose hips for jam is real nun’s work (cutting one by one and removing the seeds).

 







 Monday. After a few hours we finally finish the rose hips and make jam. It tastes really good.

Sunday, September 23, 2012

Wednesday. Rest day.

Thursday. Climbing around 2 PM at Gran Boveda to try the route Argo, 7C+.

Friday. Easy climbing.

Saturday. Rest day, playing chess,...

Sunday. Rest day, playing chess. Homemade Paella at Valle de Rodellar.

Tuesday, September 18, 2012


Sunday. Derzou climbs the route Sopas de ajo, 7B+, mostly tufas.
 














Monday. Rest day. The Raw-Bite bars from HealthXL are back, mmm

 









Tuesday. Sven and Sofie from Belgium arrived in Rodellar and stay for two weeks. Derzou tries the route Nanuk, 7C at sector Gran Bóveda.
 









Wednesday. Climbing at El Camino together with Sven and Sofie.

Thursday. Shopping day with the Belgian crew. First to the Lidl, then Decathlon and then climbing shop Guera Mascun, there we buy our new friend Eddy (belaying gear from Edelrid) and Mr. Makak (harness from Fixe). Around 10 PM the Belgians go to Kalandraka for dinner (Spanish way of dining).

Friday. Climbing together at the sector Pince sans rire.

Saturday. Swimming. On the way we see a slack liner at sector Pince sans rire.











Sunday. I climb the routes Orgásmica, 7A+ and Toma Castanazo, 7A+ and Derzou climbs the route Nanuk, 7C. In the evening a card game (Rikke) with Sven and Sofie at the hotel “Valle de Rodellar”.

Monday. Climbing at sector Pince sans rire, with Sven and Sofie.

Tuesday. Rest day. Sven and Sofie are leaving to Fontainebleau. Derzou makes himself two knee pads