Today rest day.
(the forecast for following days is rain)
Monday, May 21, 2012
Friday.
Climbing the route Red Roses, 7A+. Except the top out all moves feel good but I
hurt my left forefingers skin on the route, so I need a couple of days rest.
Sunday. Bavo is back with his girlfriend Ingrid. Together we climb in the area
of the boulder ‘Jack the chipper’. Derzou and Bavo send Jack the chipper, 7C. During
the climb we’ve to cover the top holds from the rain (thanks Ingrid to keep
them dry ;-).
Today rest day.
(the forecast for following days is rain)
Today rest day.
(the forecast for following days is rain)
Thursday, May 17, 2012
Monday.
Climbing together with our Spanish neighbors again. Derzou sends following
routes; Marihuana corner, 7A+, Red Roses, 7A+ and Grit de Luxe, 7B. During an
attempt on a nameless 7B near Die Shöne (6C), Viktor slips his left foot and
hurts his knee. He has to stop climbing for the day.
Late in the evening they say goodbye, they’re heading to Chironico (one hour driving to the other side of the mountain). Thanks for the pleasant company and good luck with your knee, Viktor.
Tuesday. We’re climbing during the late afternoon; we try a new crimpy route Crimp-o-phobia, just below Man of the cow. After 4 attempts I send the route. We’re told it’s a 7B, but feels much easier. The route is beneficial to little ones. Because Derzou can’t put his heel high, he can’t do it.
It start raining, we have to stop the climbing.
Wednesday. Rest day, it’s snowing.
Late in the evening they say goodbye, they’re heading to Chironico (one hour driving to the other side of the mountain). Thanks for the pleasant company and good luck with your knee, Viktor.
Tuesday. We’re climbing during the late afternoon; we try a new crimpy route Crimp-o-phobia, just below Man of the cow. After 4 attempts I send the route. We’re told it’s a 7B, but feels much easier. The route is beneficial to little ones. Because Derzou can’t put his heel high, he can’t do it.
It start raining, we have to stop the climbing.
Wednesday. Rest day, it’s snowing.
(this week the night temperature drops below 0 degrees)
Today. Hang out @ Guesthouse Edelweiss. Time to go to the grocery.
Today. Hang out @ Guesthouse Edelweiss. Time to go to the grocery.
Sunday, May 13, 2012
MAGIC WOOD
Monday 8PM.
Cruising to Magic Wood.
Tuesday
9PM. Arrive at Magic Wood.
Wednesday. First
contact with some easy boulders together with Bavo, a Belgian who lives in
Austria.
Thursday.
Climbing together with Bavo who flashed the route Blown Away, 7B. Derzou sends
the route in his third attempt.
Later we explore the route Kaloriënmonster, 7C. It feels very hard after 6
month’s rope climbing. Bavo is very close to send the route.
Friday. Rest
day for me. Derzou joins our Spanish neighbors Viktor, Eva & Sergi to
boulder Heb da Arsch & Slip slap slop, both 7A.
(since we
arrived the weather is so nice, sunshine every day)
Saturday. I
climb the route Scrubs,7A near Beachbloc. The moves from Red Roses, 7A+, feels still too
hard. Derzou takes a rest day.
Thursday, May 3, 2012
Back from China, Yangshuo.
10-01-2012 arrival at Yangshuo. The first days we stayed at Abond’s place, a climber’s hotel near the center of Yangshuo. We met him in Siurana, Spain, earlier on the trip.
Duo to the absence of other climbers in and near the hotel, no foreigner climbers and for the locals it was still too cold, our stay changed for a hotel next to Moon Hill. After barging one night stay diminished from 300RMB to 65RMB. The bicycle and hotel kitchen use was free. From then on rock climbing was by foot or bicycle, great!
The weather at the time was around 10°C and always cloudy, no sunshine. The climbs are mostly far reaches, from big pocket to big pocket or tufa pinch to tufa pinch. You need much explosive power and endurance. The footholds are generally slippery, but still acceptable.
One crag named “Lei Pi Shan” has more technical, crimpy, slight overhanging up to 40m climbing. It became our favorite hangout, especially Derzou’s one. From the start I didn’t trust the feet enough to be comfortable in the climbing. Unfortunately I started climbing well toward the end of our stay, so I came a little late to finish my project One Love a 15m, boulder moves, 7C+ at Lei Pi Shan.
The route “Lightning” at Lei Pi Shan is the first 8b+ in Yangshuo, climbed by many famous such as Lisa Rands. Later the route is downgraded to 8b. On the 17th of April Derzou climbed this route, after approximately 20 tries.
From March the weather became more humid and the temperature raised and like magic the first sunrays appeared, after 2 months of one big foggy sky! In March it also rained a lot but at Lei Pi Shan there are always some dry routes to climb.
Beside good fun and good training rocks, living between the farmers near Yangshuo and the small entrepreneurs mainly in the touristic sector was a very nice experience. The people tend to be less chocked by materialism and mass production, a bit similar to the area of Siurana in Spain. The biggest percentage of the people lives close to nature.
Less fun is for example not being able to update our blog in China.
Ps: see the slide show for more, just click on one of the images
Routes we have climbed in Yangshuo during our stay:
Routes tried but not completed:
Note: coming days preparations for Magic Wood, Switzerland.
Duo to the absence of other climbers in and near the hotel, no foreigner climbers and for the locals it was still too cold, our stay changed for a hotel next to Moon Hill. After barging one night stay diminished from 300RMB to 65RMB. The bicycle and hotel kitchen use was free. From then on rock climbing was by foot or bicycle, great!
The weather at the time was around 10°C and always cloudy, no sunshine. The climbs are mostly far reaches, from big pocket to big pocket or tufa pinch to tufa pinch. You need much explosive power and endurance. The footholds are generally slippery, but still acceptable.
One crag named “Lei Pi Shan” has more technical, crimpy, slight overhanging up to 40m climbing. It became our favorite hangout, especially Derzou’s one. From the start I didn’t trust the feet enough to be comfortable in the climbing. Unfortunately I started climbing well toward the end of our stay, so I came a little late to finish my project One Love a 15m, boulder moves, 7C+ at Lei Pi Shan.
The route “Lightning” at Lei Pi Shan is the first 8b+ in Yangshuo, climbed by many famous such as Lisa Rands. Later the route is downgraded to 8b. On the 17th of April Derzou climbed this route, after approximately 20 tries.
From March the weather became more humid and the temperature raised and like magic the first sunrays appeared, after 2 months of one big foggy sky! In March it also rained a lot but at Lei Pi Shan there are always some dry routes to climb.
Beside good fun and good training rocks, living between the farmers near Yangshuo and the small entrepreneurs mainly in the touristic sector was a very nice experience. The people tend to be less chocked by materialism and mass production, a bit similar to the area of Siurana in Spain. The biggest percentage of the people lives close to nature.
Less fun is for example not being able to update our blog in China.
Ps: see the slide show for more, just click on one of the images
Routes we have climbed in Yangshuo during our stay:
Routes tried but not completed:
Note: coming days preparations for Magic Wood, Switzerland.