Thursday, October 25, 2012

Tuesday. Trying Géminis and Argo.
 
Wednesday. Rest day. Late afternoon we prospect the sector Café solo, Egocentrismo and La Palomera.

Thursday. Climbing at sector Pince sans rire. Derzou on sights the routes Quimica, 7A+, Pince sans rire, 7B+ and Afina con Cristina, 7B.

Friday. Rest day.

Saturday. Trying Géminis and Argo.

Sunday. Rest day.

Monday. Climbing at sector Traversía de los Ángeles, beautiful technical seven grade routes.


Tuesday. I can finally do the crux to the right pinch (expo move) in Argo.

Wednesday. Rest day. ‘Forty’ and his girlfriend are driving back home to Mallorca.

Thursday. Trying Géminis and Argo.

Friday, Saturday and Sunday. Rain showers, good for nature but not for us, climbers.

Monday. The most of the routes are totally wet, especially our projects. The tufa’s are soaked. The vertical routes at Nuits des Temps are dry and we climb some routes including Es de puta madre, 7A+ (very technical, delicate crux in the second part).

Tuesday. Gran Bóveda is still very wet. Climbing at Pince sans rire and Nuits des Temps. Derzou on sights the route María ponte el arnés, 7B+ and Anfiestamina, 7B+/C (see picture).
 
 











Wednesday. Still tufa’s dripping at Gran Bóveda. We try the route El Delfín, 7C+ and Made in Mascún, 7C/+ (see picture) but these routes are also wet.
Dinner at Kalandraka and farewell to Armando and the locals.
 
 





Thursday. Raining. We are planning to leave Rodellar and have a stopover in Fontainebleau on the way back. Rodellar has become one of our favorite places, not only the variety of climbs but the atmosphere in the village is different than we experienced before. It’s very relaxed, I think a kind of community feeling.

Routes we have climbed in Rodellar during our stay:



Routes tried but not completed:

Monday, October 8, 2012



Monday. I try the route Argo again, but I need to work out some dynamic crux. Derzou instead send the route in his first go.
Today Derzou tries the route Geminis, 40m, 8B+ (see picture) and L’any que ve també, 7C.
 











Tuesday. We climb a very beautiful route Quimica, 7A+, one of the longest routes in Rodellar (50m) and very expo bolted. On the way back we pick some figs, to put in our breakfast, mmm.


Wednesday. Starting the day with a big breakfast at Valle de Rodellar. We go for an evening walk in the beautiful nature around Rodellar (Camino a La Ermita de la Virgen del Castillo).
 











Thursday. I try the route L’any que ve també, 7C and Derzou climbs the route.

Friday. Rainy day, chill out in the Van.

Saturday. Rainy day again, hang out in Valle de Rodellar, internet, play chess, have dinner…

Sunday. I try the route Argo again, the movements begin to feel more comfortable. Derzou tries the route Geminis again.

Monday. Together with a group of climbers (from Israel, Portugal and Spain) we walk to the sector Piscineta.
 
 








Tuesday. I try the route Argo and Derzou, Geminis.

Wednesday. Rest day, hang out in Valle de Rodellar starting with a great breakfast.

Thursday. I try again Argo, still one hard dynamic move to a pinch that I can’t do and Derzou works out all the moves in Geminis, except the last run after the traverse is for the next time.

Friday. Rest day. Derzou is in the mood to bake a cake, mmm tastes good.
 
 









Saturday. Short visit from Guga (B), he’s on his way to Portugal to surf. I try the route Argo again and Derzou, Geminis.

Sunday. Picking rose hips and figs, to make jam. Preparing the rose hips for jam is real nun’s work (cutting one by one and removing the seeds).

 







 Monday. After a few hours we finally finish the rose hips and make jam. It tastes really good.