CÉÜSE

Sunday. We arrive 1 AM in Ceuse. In the morning we meet Klaas (B), he’s here since two days. Together we visit the goat farm 200 meters down the road, where you can buy organic goat cheese, apple-quince juice,… and there is internet access.







In the afternoon we start the long steep walk with all our gear to the top. When we arrive, after one and a half hour, the wall looks amazing. We meet the family Debreyne (B), also the first day and they stay until Thursday. We climb many six degree routes. At the end of the day we hide our climbing gear somewhere near the wall (like many climbers).

Sunday. We make jam from wild strawberries and blueberries. Olivier Mignon (B) arrives and stays until mid-august.

 

Monday. I try La Boume de Luxe again and I do two more moves, but I still can’t finish it.

 

Tuesday. We meet Nico Favresse (B) and Argyros (GR) in Magic Wood. Derzou tries Foxy Lady, Octopussy and Astronautenfieber.

Wednesday. Rest day.

Thursday. A last try in La Boume de Luxe. I do one more move than before, but I 've still the same problem; not enough power endurance.

Nico Farcy drives home today (he climbs very well during his stay, he climbs Foxy Lady, Free for all, No Liberty and Riverbed).

In the evening Marion cooks a delicious dinner for us and some friends.

 

Friday. Clean-up day in our Van. Tomorrow morning we drive to Ceuse (France).
Magic Wood is a good place for training and gain maximum strength, for good fun and meeting many motivated climbers.


Routes we have climbed in Magic Wood during our stay:


 Routes tried but not completed:

Monday. I’m feeling better, after a few days of illness. In the evening we go climbing, I try La Boume de Luxe again, but I fall at the crux (as usual snif snif).
Derzou climbs Höhenzone, a 7C boulder with a jump at the end (a static version is also possible). Before dark Derzou tries Rythmo, 7C+.

Tuesday. Rest day.

Wednesday. Derzou, Clemens and Mathias are cleaning some new boulders near Blindfish.
In the evening a food party at the campfire; different pasta’s, sausages, pesto & vegetable sauce and salad.

Thursday. Many climbers at the cleaned boulders, everyone psyched to do a first ascent. Derzou does two first ascents, one is a 5C/6A named Banana Split and the other one is a 6A/6B (no name yet). Later on the day Derzou tries Rythmo together with David from Germany. After trying a few new methods Derzou sends the route. I try the first moves of Foxy Lady (8A).
At the evening Mathias (Austria) is going back home together with Clemens to visit a festival, Clemens is coming back next week. Martin from Hannover (Germany) is cycling back to Munich. From there he takes the train home.

 




Friday. Rest day. We meet Nico Farcy, from Belgium, at the campground. He will be here for one week.

Wednesday. Together with Clemens from Germany we climb much and easy boulders. Later on the day Josè, Micha and Janus joins us to try the route Chiquita, 6C+. Derzou sends the route. It starts raining.

Thursday. I feel so tired. The coming days will be rain so it’s a good moment to take a few rest days.

Monday. Derzou & Clemens are cleaning four new boulders on a high slab near Beach Bloc. Three of them are 5 degree and one is 6C/7A. Derzou does a first ascent of the traverse Bangs Pamela, the 6C/7A. Later Derzou climbs the high boulder Marathonman, 7B, with rope.












Tuesday. Try to climb high boulder Perfect Day (6a, E6) with rope, either of us couldn’t do it.

Wednesday. I feel a little bit sick and weak. Derzou is taking a walk to the mines with Clemens, Mathias and Martin, not far from the campground. Derzou brought some stones with minerals, one with cobalt that can be used for painting pigment and one for iron.

Thursday. Together with Paul from Germany, Derzou tries Höhenzone, 7C.

Friday. A visit to Val di Lei with Clemens, Mathias and Martin. If you cross the dam, build to produce electricity, you’re in Italy. There you can visit a family cheese factory which exists already 200 years. We buy a slice of their Bitto, Parmigiano Reggiano and Ricotta cheese.







Saturday. Rainy day. The flew has broken out (many people on the camping seems ill), I need some days to recover and I hope to get well soon.

This week we decided to stay in Magic Wood, till the end of July.

(this is the link to the pictures taken by the English photographer from last week http://gallery.hi-jinks.co.uk/f330752790)